While I am not fully convinced that I should switch to Olympus Workspace and dump Olympus Viewer 3 (OV3) altogether, I am giving myself the opportunity of going back and forth between the two for a chance of a hit that will make for a good decision. None so far.
Still a long way from being an expert, and after having done Installation and Setup, Editing Film-Scan JPEG Images, and Editing B&W JPEG Images, I am looking at B&W JPEG conversions for this session.
All of the images used in this session were originally shot on the 5MP Nokia Asha 300, a vintage that I am very fond of. Good daylight images from the camera are all sharp and crisp, with good color rendition.
Just as with color photography, converting these images to black and white with the use of an appropriate color filter is the way to control the texture and contrast of converted black and white images.
While this selection of color filters and contrast control is available on the OV3 through its Monochrome & Sepia module, that function is available on Olympus Workspace in 'Picture Mode' for RAW images only.
That leaves the choice of doing the black-and-white conversion for JPEG images on Olympus Workspace by desaturation or by way of using the Grainy Film I & II Art Filters, which, of course, will add grain to the images.
For these images, the conversion was done by desaturation. The basic setting was to set Saturation at -100 (negative 100) and Contrast at +20 (positive 20). Other edits include Gradation, Clarity, and Dehaze at intensities appropriate to individual images. The intense black was achieved by 'crushing the blacks'.
By itself, desaturation, the simplest type of conversion, may not always produce inadequate results. The main reason is that it does not allow for control over how the primary colors combine to produce a given grayscale brightness. These images, however, can be enhanced using other edit modes that are available, for example, on Olympus Workspace, and your selection may do you well.
Next - Demystifying Clarity and Dehaze
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